Tuesday, August 16, 2011
1. Wag magdrive ng nakinom (Don't drive when you are drunk)
2. Isa lang dapat ang back ride. (Only on back ride)
3. follow traffic rules... (Sundin and batas trapiko)
4. complete motorcycle parts ( Side mirrors, signal lights, head and tail lights, brake lights, horn, etc.)
5. condition and inspect motorcycle before riding.
6. drive defensively, carefully, respectfully and responsibly.
7. make your self visible to others esp. at night.
8. ride based on your capacity only.
9. Wag masyado mabilis mas lalo nasa sa medyo masikip na road..
10. Pray for guidance bago umalis. (Always Pray to GOD)
11. Focus sa driving.. hanggat maari huwag ng lumingon sa mga bagay-bagay like DISTURBING BILLBOARDS
12. Huwag mag drive kapag antok. Magpahinga muna or uminom ng energy drink.
13. Umovertake sa kaliwa hangga't maaari. Iwasang umovertake sa kanan.
14. mag-ingat sa mga balasubas ng drive.. Lalo yung mga driver ng bus at fx..
15. practice SIPDE (Scan, Identify, Predict, Decide, Execute)
16. Anticipate accidents (kung iniisip mo ang puwedeng mangyari sa iyo mas maiiwasan mo ito.)
17. huwag masyado mayabang if nagdrive.
18. as much as possible, iwasan po magmaneho ng galit o masama ang loob (tendency to loose focus on road) Smiley
19. always be patient enough...lalo na pag traffic at mala late ka na sa work. Lips sealed
20. always give way to pedestrians Wink
21. never be over confident Cool
22. Ignore your cellphone until you can pull over to the side of the road.
Tuesday, August 16, 2011 0
Because of the breaking wind resistance, you do not require to employ higher gears as though you would on a dyno machine. The primary thing is to charge the engine by opening the accelerator hard in second, third and fourth gear mechanism.
Truthfully, you will not be capable to do full throttle runs even in second gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The most adept process is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings.
In addition to, make certain that you are not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we do not desire anyone to get hit from behind !!
The greatest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police force) are if you ride the bike on the freeway (insufficient acceleration = not adequate pressure on the rings) or if you bog down in boring city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more and run it through the gears !
Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! Once you're not used to the caring of a new vehicle, you should speed up only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.
On the Racetrack:
Do one easy lap to warm up your tires. Pit, turn off the bike & check for leaks orany safety problems. Take a normal 15 minute practice sessionand check the water temperature occasionally. The racetrack is the perfect environment to break in an engine !! The combination of acceleration and deceleration is just the ticket for sealing the rings.
The perfected crosshatch blueprint in the piston chamber bore acts as like a file to grant the rings to wear. The rings speedily fag the "peaks" of this roughness, no matter of how difficult the locomotive is run.
There's a very belittled window of chance to acquire the rings to seal really well ... the 1st twenty miles !!whenever the rings aren't pressured against the walls in time, they will consume the harshness before they fully seat. In one case that happens there has no solution but to re perfect the cylinders, install new rings and begin once more.
As luck would have it, most new sportbike possessors can't refuse the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!
A further component that you might not have actualized, is that the individual at the franchise who assemble your motorcycle probably blasted your bran-new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without gaining it, that Adrenalin deranged assemble automobile mechanic actually did you a vast favor !!
Here's How To Do It:
On that point are 3 know-hows you will be able to break in an locomotive engine:
1) on a dyno
2) on the street, or off road (Motocross or Snowmobile.)
3) on the racetrack
On a Dyno:
Warm the engine up
completely !!
Then, using 4th gear:
Do Three 1/2 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 60% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool DownFor About 15 Minutes
Do Three 3/4 Throttle dyno runs from
40% - 80% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool DownFor About 15 Minutes
Do Three Full Throttle dyno runs from
30% - 100% of your engine's max rpm
Let it Cool DownFor About 15 Minutes
The Honda XRM is an underbone-style motorbike that has been brought forth and sold in the Philippine Islands. They're called Nice in Thailand but not an Off-Road type. Since 2001, the Honda XRM has been brought out with a 110 cc engine, but 2007 has seen the release of the Honda XRM 125 cc which uses the locomotive engine from the Honda Wave. They're designed for both on- and off-road use.
Comfort of adjustment and readily-available parts and add-ons have made the Honda XRM popular, particularly with underbone riding refinement, with a lot of rider clubs being formed across the nation. Unfortunately, this adjustments (especially to the handlebars and wheels) could pose dangers, as they are not specifically included in the product's engineering, and often defeat the "Dual-Sport" nature of the motorbike.
The Honda Bravo is a derivative of the Honda XRM designed for city use, but it bears the same frame that is used by NF100 (Wave100 - both models) not the frame of the XRM.
Preparation or desiring to have a Sound System on your XRM or motorbike? Well for Anthony he will give you a low down on what stuffs you'll require and about how a good deal you'll need to spend... please recall that the costs are unlike with BRAND items. Whenever you're looking to a dependable name-brand product, expect to pay MORE!
He's particular Sound System is very good especially at Highway Speeds. So here's what he have:
• [1] 800w V12-brand 2-Channel Amplifier (~700pesos)
• [2] 300w Audiolife 4-way Speakers (1000+pesos)
• [2] 100w Tweeters (~100pesos)
• [1] Audio cable (~30pesos)
• [8] Sets of Nuts and Bolts to mount your Speakers and Amplifier.
• [1] Mp3/4 or iPod or a type of music player.
For he's particular assemble you will spend less than 1800pesos. Note that this doesn't include installment.
If you possess your own Power instruments, Iherecommend you to do it yourself. cut, drill and install. If you do not own power tools, you will have to find someone who does!
He is using an iPod video 60gb for my music.
In addition to: That it is potential to have a BIGGER amplifier and speakers, but remember to make certain it will fit inside your motorcycle and NOT get wet! he also commend to get rid of any additional electrical accessories such as Neon Lights, Strobes, Air Brakes. Sound System will need a LOT of your battery.
Follow the Forum here: Hondaxrm.net
Just a simple video of my Modified Honda XRM idleing so you can hear how a it sounds. It is fited with 280lift Kitti racing cam, port n polish, 28mm OKO carb, oversize flat top piston, manual clutch and lots of other mods too. If you want more info and tech tips on the Honda XRM
